Above: A composite of colors featuring the conical hats of Viet Nam
Al Fresco at the Hotel Continental in HCMC
The Emeraude in Ha Long Bay
VIET NAM: A TREASURE CHEST
The seeds which germinate in our minds eventually inspire what we think will be momentous decisions. However, the subconscious is long and hard at work, tending lovingly at those seeds to bring about enlightenment, per se. I think Viet Nam happened to me some time between Marguerite Duras’ novel and movie, “The Lover”, and the magnificent film Indochine. Indelible war Pulitzer Prize images, such as that of Huuynh Cong Ut who immortalized a young girl, torn with panic, running naked in the streets. Hints and flashes of romance managed to sneak in between the horrors that we had branded into our brains; and wonder: fighting a losing war cannot be an easy pill to swallow, no matter what positive spin you are getting from your news sources.
Viet Nam’s woes did not end with the American War: it continued to fight against China through Cambodia's Khmer Rouge and thus for the populace, the war for freedom just continued.
The extraordinary landscape suffered at the hands of the aggressors; the arterial Ho Chi Minh Trail continually fed forces with supplies, food and arms and made it harder to vanquish the North as troops kept pouring in. The infamous idea to defoliate part of the trail razed millions of acres of precious forestlands and further inflicted damages that we continue to see until this very day. Children born with gross deformities, cancer victims, and U.S. veterans as sufferers of Agent Orange.
Splendor comes in via the cinema, as anything else that we manage to glimpse about this country is war related. The French schoolgirl who drives her Viet Namese lover mad or the elderly matron who loses her lover to her daughter; the great parties, the long dresses, the ceremonious gestures, the chauffeur driven cars, the royal dynasties and the tombs which testify their prior existence
The Long House at the Museum of Ethnology
The hodgepodge of culture, the cyclo drivers, the beautiful crafts that finally begin to show on the shelves of Pier 1 Imports , Pottery Barn and other home fashion stores begin to register with buyers. Earning early recognition are the polished bamboo and laquered plates and vases with concentric lines. What other treasures await?
The journey would start through an invitation to document a luxury cruise aboard the Emeraude at Ha Long Bay, or the Bay of Descending Dragons. UNESCO recognized the splendor of it by designating it a World Heritage Site. As a travel writer, I was able to document and enjoy as authentically as possible the luxury aboard the Emeraude, a replica of a barge enjoyed by Viet Nam's French occupiers who once plied these waters. One of the highlights of the excursion is meeting the general manager of the Hanoi Press Club, Kurt Walter. Kurt belongs to the ever growing ex-pat society of Hanoi, which he now calls home.
The streams of writing which resulted from this odyssey found a home on a Webby award winning travel website called IGOUGO. I am thrilled, and not surprised, that the series are the most widely read of any journals I've ever published. Viet Nam has taken on a different face through my pen; it has flavor, culture, warmth, excitement and charm.
My good fortune continued after corresponding with a woman called Mai Anh Nguyen (Nguyen is the most common surname in Viet Nam), who owns a travel agency in Ha Noi. I became English editor for her, and she very kindly made suggestions and invitations to various parts of Viet Nam during our stay there. As I was adamant about taking the train from one end of the country to the other, Mai Anh suggested the route from North to South was best to take. She was right on the money!
Thai Hoa Palace in Imperial Hue City
WILL THE REAL VIET NAM PLEASE STAND?
It was not like anything I had ever expected, and certainly, when you look at the pictures to the right, the one in the center is most likely the association most people make when Viet Nam is mentioned. Though I spent hours researching the country and the various places we expected to visit, I was never prepared for what was in store. As we landed in Saigon (officially called Ho Chi Minh City, but here in the South, no one ever refers to it that way), we find that this city moves at a furious pace even when the eyes of the world are closed. At 4:00am, peering from the second floor window of the Indochine Hotel, conical hats are moving without regard to directional signs. Motorbikes and bicycles transport everything here: aside from women, men, and children, add fresh vegetables, clothing, plastic goods, industrial paper products are all being pedaled furiously to a trading destination. Nothing stops except the heart at an intersection.
Every once in a while, a car will appear as an anomaly on the street. Today will be the day to learn about the coffee filtering system inherited from the French, who have left more than just a culinary legacy here. The Croque Monsieur is not bad either, though it's a bit on the dry side. Scented bowls of jasmine perfume the eating area, and you can't help but wonder if this is really Viet Nam. Our first few days present an interesting challenge with currency: VDN (vietnamese dong)15,800 for each US dollar. Venturing outside of the hotel, American investments are alive and well on Hai Ba Trung Street. Kentucky Fried Chicken looms large on this busy artery, as does the recently finished Hyatt Hotel. I also see the high tower of the Sheraton in competition with the high tower added to the Caravelle Hotel. Boutique fashion comes alive on Dong Khoi Street. You can literally gorge yourself with all sorts of silk products and laquered home fashions as well as footwear for unbeatable prices. And when hunger pangs strike, why not stop at the fabulous Paris Deli ?
Breakfast at the Indochine Hotel
Display at the Southern Women's Museum In HCMC
Fahasa Bookstore Window Display
IMPERIAL PAST
Modeled much like China's forbidden city, the Imperial City of Hue once housed the emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty. By clicking on the picture to the right, you will be taken to my journal which discusses the trip to Hue and the blend of magnificence, the ravages of the war still visible, and the attempt at restoration.
Fortunately for us, our visit there included a stop at a Heritage House, many of which are found all over the country. This particular one belonged to one of the Royals who used it as a vacation house. The furnishings are authentic and reflect the deep influence of Chinese design and feng shui.
More to read
Should you be more than just curious at this point, I'll be pleased to take you on my journey to the following places:
An overview of the majestic Imperial City of the past dynasties, and so much more. Just follow the links when you get to the travel journals. I promise you an unforgettable trip.
Heritage House in Hue
Authentic Imperial Furnishings
Mother of Pearl Inlays in the Cabinet
WHERE'S THE SILK?
The silk industry is alive and thriving in Viet Nam, and is a great opportunity for investments. We have shown only some of the great valued items on our fabric page, and ask you to please follow this link to get an idea of the items you might want to investigate. Please keep in mind that there are literally hundreds of styles in each category, and it would be impossible to show them all. Available is the full catalogue which can be emailed.
WHERE'S THE PAPER?
Though we have no current offers or samples for handmade papers from Viet Nam, please go to this page to read about the craft and the methods. We are also asking all those that are interested to let us know. Thanks.
Embellished Silk Purses
Red Silk Ao Dai Dress
Hand Sewn Peacock on Silk Skirt
Men's Silk Ties
PLAN YOUR TRIP!!
You may have seen the top photo recently as part of an advertisement from Viking Tours, a travel company, featuring its World of Flavor. Amazingly enough, Viet Nam earned its spot on the list, taking place early spring of 2006. The Tour, by the way is sold out. Other countries include Spain for fall 2006, India for January 2006, the Mississippi Delta for late spring 2006 and Mexico for early March 2006.
Well, when we do Viet Nam, we really know how to do it, because we spent almost a month there from North to South. If you're going to do food, you are going to want to do shopping, cruising, dancing, museums and the immense variety of culture the country has to offer. Below I have provided links for you to check out on the various parts of the country I visited and evaluated:
We will soon be posting a journal on our experiences in Bat Trang, a wonderful ceramic and pottery village north of Hanoi. We'll keep you posted. Wouldn't you rather have us put your trip together? I have the best partner in the world for itineraries to Viet Nam. She is indeed a woman that had a vision some time ago about how tourism should be, and she has grown! I am honored to be English editor to her website.
Our own photos show a fruit display for breakfast at the Continental Hotel , followed by the colorful dragon fruit. The next dish gets star billing as Viet Nam's national dish, Pho, which is a simple soup, but highly addictive. Finally, what you see is the complimentary meal on the E2 Train which runs north to south and vice versa. This is included in the first class ticket price
MOVE OVER SAN FRANCISCO!
Cable cars are coming to Central Viet Nam; French Group Poma is setting up what will be the longest cable car system in the country. It will link the resort area of Nha Trang with offshore Tre Island, the location of Hong Noc Viet Resort. Completion of the project is expected by October 2006.
